2013 Africa - Part 2

Zanzibar

Islam is Zanzibar’s dominant religion, so it meant respectable clothing for all and especially when visiting the capital, Stone Town, which is also a World Heritage Site.

We visited the home of the musician Freddie Mercury of Queen who was born in Unguja, Zanzibar to Indian-Parsi parents and were employed by the British colonial administration.  In September 2006, a radical Islamic group on the archipelago, Uamsho, forced organisers to abandon plans to mark his 60^th birthday, saying he violated Islam with his openly gay lifestyle.  Zanzibar criminalised homosexuality in 2004 but despite this it remains a popular resort destination for the South African gay community.

Day 36 – 18^th September – Lushoto (360 km)

Sadly we said goodbye to Zanzibar and our wonderful accommodation at Ningwi Beach, took the two-hour ferry back to the mainland and once again headed northward, towards Lushoto.

We spiralled up a mountain in the Usambara Mountains where we stayed overnight.  The owner of the Hotel was from Cyprus but has lived in Africa for about 30 years.  The authentic little bar was full of chitchat that night with the Aussies and another group of retirees from New Zealand.

Day 37 – 19^th September – Arusha (480 km)

This has been quite a long day in the truck, with the plans being changed to supposedly fit in better with our upcoming excursion to the Serengeti National Park.  In the afternoon we visited a Maasai Museum and also a snake park where we saw many of the snakes found in Africa – thankfully they were all enclosed behind glass.  The extra distance travelled to visit these two places made our day very long indeed; we actually didn’t sit down to eat dinner until after 10:00pm.

Day 38/39/40 – 20/21/22^nd September – Serengeti NP and Ngorongoro Crater (100 km)

Today began a change of pace as we packed our day packs with 3 days’ clothing including warm jackets, boarded our open topped 4x4 safari vehicles and headed into the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater for a camping excursion. 

The Serengeti is one of the most densely inhabited large animal populations in Africa and it is most famous for the largest and longest overland migration in the world.  Around October, nearly 2 million herbivores travel from the northern hills toward the southern plains crossing the Mara River in pursuit of the rains.  In April, they then return to the north through the west, once again crossing the Mara River.  This phenomenon is sometimes called the Circular Migration.  Over 250,000 wildebeest alone will die along the journey from Tanzania to Maasai Mara Reserve in upper Kenya, a total of 800 km.  Death is often caused by injury, exhaustion or predation. 

Approximately 70 larger mammal and some 500 avifauna species are found there.  Blue Wildebeests, gazelles, zebras and buffalos are some of the commonly found large mammals in the region.

As we drove through the Serengeti we were able to stand up inside the vehicle to have a great view through the open pop-up roof.  On our many game drives we were able to see amazing groups of animals at extremely close range (alongside our car in fact) including lions, cheetahs, elephants, giraffes, hyenas and many more.  One amazing sight was a pride of “social” lions, whereby we counted fourteen lions resting close together under a tree.

When we arrived at the campsite our tents were erected, so all we had to do was make ourselves at home.  There was a large elephant eating plants very close to our facilities, so we had to check where it was before we set out.  One day it ventured to the front of the shower block when I was inside with about four other ladies!  A young man also joined us as the elephant flapped his ears and bellowed at a group of people who took refuge in the shower block with us.  We spent quite an anxious twenty minutes until the elephant finished his snack of green leaves and moved away.

Our third and quite cool night was spent camping on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater.  The Ngorongoro area is part of the Serengeti ecosystem, and to the northwest it adjoins the Serengeti National Park and is contiguous with the southern Serengeti plains.  These plains also extend to the north into the unprotected Loliondo division and are kept open to wildlife through trans-human pastoralism practiced by Maasai.  The south and west of the area are volcanic highlands.  The south and east boundaries are defined by the rim of the Great Rift Valley wall, which also prevents animal migration in these directions.

Day 41 – 23^rd September – Arusha (150 km)

On our drive into Arusha we were disappointed we were unable to fully see Mount Kilimanjaro, which was covered in cloud.  We did have good views to Mount Meru, which is the second highest mountain.  The primary industry of the region is agriculture, with large vegetable and flower producers sending high quality produce to Europe.  Samll scale agriculture was badly affected by the coffee crisis of recent years and is now largely subsistence farming.  Arusha is a major centre with several factories including a brewery, tyre and fibreboard plant and is a large pharmaceutical maker.

Day 42 – 24^th September – Kenya to Nairobi (306 km)

We crossed the border into Kenya and headed toward the capital city of Nairobi.  The bad news had arrived that terrorists have murdered people, taken hostages and created havoc in the Westgate Shopping Centre in the City.  Approximately 70 people have been killed; many are missing and in excess of 100 have been injured.

There was some anxiety amongst the people on our truck in respect to heading into Nairobi and especially due to the fact that our hotel was approximately 500 metres away from the Westgate Shopping Mall.  Word came through that our Hotel was safe and secure, so we proceeded into Nairobi.  Due to our Hotel being so close to the Mall, we had helicopters flying across all day and night.  It was still a couple more days before all was settled and the terrorists, identified as Al-Shaabab an arm of Al-Queda were defeated.  Whilst the siege was going on in the City, it was still business as usual.

In the evening we all met up in the Hotel dining room for a wonderful meal, which was a great respite from our camping nights.

Nairobi, a Maasai name meaning the place of cool waters, is the capital and largest city in Kenya.  Founded in 1899 as a simple rail depot on the railway linking Mombasa to Uganda, the town quickly grew to become the capital of British East Africa in 1907 and eventually the capital of a free Kenyan republic in 1963.  During Kenya’s colonial period, the city became a centre for the colony’s coffee, tea and sisal industries.  Nairobi is the most populated city in East Africa, with a current estimated population of approximately 3 million.

Nairobi is now one of the most prominent cities in Africa politically and financially and is home to many companies and organisations, including the United Nations Environment Programme and the United Nations Office in Africa. 

Day 43 – 25^th September – Maasai Mara (230 km)

Our day began with a game drive through Hell’s Gate National Park, before we entered the huge area of spectacular game viewing to see some of Africa’s most abundant wildlife in the Maasai Mara.  The Maasai Mara is known as Africa’s Greatest Wildlife Reserve, famous for the abundance of lion, the Great Wildebeest Migration and the Maasai people, well known for their distinctive customs and dress.  It is claimed to be one of Africa’s most famous safari destinations.

The reserve covers some 1,530 square km and is bounded by the Serengeti Park to the south, the Siria escarpment to the west and Maasai pastoral ranches to the north, east and west.  The terrain of the reserve is primarily open savannah grassland with seasonal riverlets.  Wildebeest, zebra and Thomson’s gazelle migrate into and occupy the Mara reserve from the Serengeti plains to the south and Loita plains in the pastoral ranches to the northeast from July to October or later.  The Great Migration is one of the most impressive natural events worldwide, involving some 1.5 million wildebeests, 360,000 Thomson’s gazelles and 191,000 zebras.  These numerous migrants are followed along their annual, circular route by a block of hungry predators, most notably lions and hyenas.

All members of the Big 5 are found in the Maasai Mara, although the population of black rhinoceros is severely threatened.  Hippopotami are found in large groups in the Maasai Mara and Talek rivers.  Cheetah is also found, although their numbers are threatened.  Over 450 species of birdlife have been identified in the park, including vultures, marabou storks, secretary birds, hornbills, crowned cranes, ostriches, long crested eagles and African pygmy falcons.

In the Maasai Mara we visited a Maasai compound, completely surrounded by thorned prickle bushes (to keep out lions), where the young men of the village welcomed us.  The men wear traditional clothes of varying colours of reds, greens, purples, oranges and blacks draped across their bodies.  They gave us a wonderful display of their chanting and dancing and of course their very famous jumps.  The jumps form part of their dance and gives a man who can jump the highest, an advantage in gaining a wife if he doesn’t have enough cattle – this display of high jump during the dance is one way he can get a wife for free.

They gave us a good explanation of their way of life and general lifestyle, even taking us into their dimly lit huts.  The women of the village build the huts and pack cow dung on the inside and outside of the walls to make it waterproof.  When it is raining the men sit inside and poke sticks through the walls to show the wife outside in the rain where a patch is required.  Very few Maasai leave their villages and choose to live in the village and carry on their traditional ways.  Polygamy is part of the African culture and men can have as many wives as they can afford, having to pay in cattle for each subsequent wife.  The wealth of a Maasai is determined by his livestock ownership - these he and his family care for on a daily basis. 

Day 44 – 26^th September – Lake Naivasha (120 km)

We headed out of our campsite bound for the Mara River, with the hope of seeing some of the migratory animals crossing the river.  We arrived at the river to find hundreds of dead and bloated wildebeest in the river, with many others floating downstream.  The guide said there had been a crossing early that morning with many of the wildebeest we were seeing meeting their death amid the confusion at the crossing, not to mention the scores of crocodiles thrown into the equation.

The guide walked with us down along the riverbank to the most famous crossing point for the wildebeest.  It is from this very point and a nearby bridge that the many documentaries about the Great Migration are filmed.  On the bank across the river from where we were standing, he showed us the largest crocodile in the river.  Once a migratory animal has been brought down, the blood in the river signals an avalanche of crocodiles to this most famous spot.

Lake Naivasha is a freshwater lake forming part of the Great Rift Valley and lays north west of Nairobi.  The name is derived from the local Maasai, meaning rough water because of the sudden storms which can arise.  The lake has a surface area of 139 square km and is surrounded by a swamp, which covers an area of 64 square km, but this varies depending on the rainfall.  The lake is home to a variety of wildlife, with over 400 different species of bird being reported.  There is also a sizeable population of hippos in the lake.  Of note, was the electric fence in front of our accommodation to keep the hippos out of our grounds at night.

In the mid 60’s Elsamere was a former home of Joy Adams, best known for her autobiographical novel, Born Free.  It is possible to attend a High Tea at Elsamere if time permits.  Our group co-jointly decided to forego the High Tea and visit the Mara River instead.

Day 45 – 27^th September – Lake Nakuru (80 km)

Lake Nakuru National Park was established in 1961 and is named after the alkaline lake that it encircles.  Nakuru means dry or dusty place in the Maasai language.  It was initially established as a bird sanctuary, but is now home to a large number of animal species, including the lion, leopard, rhino and buffalo.  Lake Nakuru is famous for the vast flocks of flamingos that line its shores, attracted by the abundance of algae.  It is also a sanctuary for black and white rhino and has recently been extended to protect these endangered animals.

Day 46/47 – 28/29^th September – Lake Nakuru – Kampala (560 km)

Today we headed out of Kenya towards Uganda, crossing the Equator on the way.  Once more, we had another long day once in the truck.  We had amazing views from our windows as we drove through the city of Kampala, viewing the thousands of people on the streets and the many night markets.

There had been a change to our itinerary today, as we were originally booked to stay in Entebbe, which is located on the northern shores of Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake.  It turned out to be a great change of itinerary for us as we were booked into a wonderful Hotel in Kampala, where we enjoyed some extra comfort for the next two nights.

On our second day in Kampala, Nomad provided us with a mini bus for transport.  We travelled into Entebbe where we enjoyed morning coffee at Anna’s Corner; a visit to the Botanical Gardens where the original Tarzan movies were made and then followed by a delicious lunch on the deck of Faze 3 Restaurant overlooking Lake Victoria.   

Day 48 – 30^th September – Kampala – Lake Bunyoni (430 km)

Lake Bunyoni is a small but attractive lake with steep sides and abundant birdlife.  Ringed by mountains, the lake is best known for its dense otter population and stunning scenery.  Lake Bunyoni, meaning place of many little birds, lies on the border of Rwanda.  It is 25 km long and 7 km wide, covering an area of 61 square km.  Lake Bunyoni, at almost 1,000 metres deep is said to be the third deepest lake in the world, preceded by Lake Baikal in Siberia and Lake Tanganyika in Tanzania (I could not find documentation which agreed with Bunyoni being in this category).  Lake Bunyoni has 29 islands within its waters and is one of the few lakes in the region that is free of bilharzia and safe for swimming.  The countryside in Uganda is truly beautiful, with green grass and trees stretching as far as the eye can see towards the mountains. 

We set off for an hour’s boat trip up the lake, followed by approximately an 8 km walk to visit some of the Batwa (pygmy) tribes, who have been relocated from the National Park into the areas close to and around Lake Bunyoni.  We were welcomed on our walk by several of the tribesman who shouted “cassaly-cassaly-cassaly” as a welcome chant and banged their plastic containers with sticks as they escorted us up the hill into their village.  The men, women and children danced and sang for us as we rested on their little benches.  The hardest part now was that had to return to the boat, 8 km away.  Today’s walks ensured a good bit of exercise in readiness for our gorilla trek the next day.

We spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing and playing a few games of Rummikub.

Day 49/50  - 1/2^nd October – Gorillas (Lake Bunyoni) (125 km)

Our cabin overlooking the lake is very peaceful and a great place to unwind over the next couple of days in preparation for our Mountain Gorilla Trek.  The mountain gorilla is an extremely endangered species and whilst numbers vary, it is assumed that there are approximately 880 left;  however numbers are increasing.

We applied and paid for our gorilla permits ($250 each) over six months ago, with these funds being used for the increased protection of the gorillas, particularly from the Congo, Rwandan and Ugandan poachers.  Community work continues as locals change their attitudes towards wildlife and begin to protect rather than poach, to ensure the future of the mountain gorilla.

Early next morning, after a 4:30 am start we arrived at the point of departure for our gorilla trek.  One guide met our group of eight trekkers, together with two trackers, three porters and two AK47-toting guards, who took their place at the front and rear of our group, joined us.

The going was pretty tough as we climbed up through dense scrub and rough terrain on the mountainside.  We left our departure point at 8:30 am and by 11:30 am we were sitting within two metres of a large female gorilla, recently pregnant.  The large male silverback was the first gorilla we encountered, but apart from a couple of backward glances over his shoulder, he wasn’t too interested in us.  We climbed past him further downhill to another four gorillas in this family of ten.  The large female gorilla sat in front of us for the next hour looking at us, checking us out and posing in various positions.  At one point she started picking her nose – lo and behold she then stuck her finger and contents into her mouth and seemed to enjoy the delicacy!  She rolled over, began to bellow and thump her chest to let us know she is one tough gorilla – she then continued to eat the lush greenery around her.  Another time she rolled forward on her front hands and began to check us out – it really is a bit daunting when she looks straight into your eyes.  When our hour was up, we began to slowly move away – she leaned forward and looked at us, as if to say “I was enjoying your company - do you really have to leave?”

The gorillas are truly beautiful, gentle and peaceful creatures.  We all had a magnificent experience in meeting these giants of the jungle – a memory we’ll forever hold dear and one we’ll never forget.  

Day 51/52 – 3/4^th October – Queen Elizabeth National Park (320 km)

The next two nights were spent at Queen Elizabeth National Park, established in 1954 and famous as Uganda’s most-visited game reserve.  In comparison to other African Parks it is not as abundant with wildlife, due to the many years of conflict and animal poaching.  The park is also famous for its volcanic features, comprising volcanic cones and deep craters, many with crater lakes such as Lake Katwe, from which salt is extracted.

We set out on a game drive early on the second morning.  Our open sided safari vehicle came complete with warm blankets and bottles of water.  As we were advised, the animals aren’t as abundant here as in other parks in Africa, but we did see Uganda’s beautiful National bird - the red crested crane, Guinea fowls, elephants, lions, Ugandan kobs, wart hogs, water bucks, vervet monkeys, baboons, hippos and many species of birds.

Some spare time later in the day gave me the opportunity to catch up on my blog.

Day 53/54 – 5/6^th October – Jinja (480 km)

We headed back towards Jinja, on the Nile River.  Once again we had to pass through Uganda’s Capital City, Kampala.  The traffic crawl was congested and the streets and markets were bustling with people.  Nyika told us we were lucky to visit Kampala on the weekend on both occasions, as during the week the traffic is horrendous.

Our accommodation here is a two storey bungalow and very comfortable where we’ll settle in for the next couple of days.

On the second afternoon we enjoyed a sunset cruise and sundowners on the River Nile.  We were shown some caves at the bottom of a cliff where the Mayor of the city of Jinja went into hiding for three months following orders from the dictator Edi Amin that he be murdered – yes he survived.

Day 55 – Kenya – Eldoret (320 km)

Eldoret is 2,100 metres above sea level.  It is a Kenyan town founded by Afrikaners in 1910.  The Eldoret area had been settled by Afrikaan-speaking South Africans who trekked there from Nakuru after a long journey from South Africa by sea and by rail from Mombasa.  European and Asian settlers and traders began arriving shortly afterwards. 

Eldoret is the hometown of numerous legendary Kenyan runners, the most renowned of whom is Kipchoge Keino.  The high altitude is an ideal training ground for many middle and long distance athletes.  The runners from Eldoret have contributed significantly to the economy of Eldoret town from their winnings in races all over the world.

We are staying at the Naiberi River Camp in a very cute thatched bungalow and are enjoying the cooler temperatures.  Bill Gates has also stayed here, so it must be pretty good.

Day 55 – 7^th October – Nairobi (350 km)

Today began the final leg of this mammoth journey, which has been over 12,000 kms in total.  All was going well until Sandile was pulled up about one hour outside of Nairobi, for supposedly speeding.  The coppers said that Sandile was driving at 103 km per hour in a 100 km zone.  Our truck Sid, is incapable of travelling at 100 km and we have been travelling at 80 to 90 all day … but .. we are in Africa and we were told to “expect the unexpected”.  Sandile had to drive the truck to the Police Station where we all sat and waited whilst the crooked coppers went about their routine of a fine plus a bribe.  The fine was 10,000 shillings followed by Sandile having to come back here to Court in two days time – however – if Sandile paid another 8,000 shillings the charge will be dropped as will the appearance in Court!  Figure all that out!

We finally arrived back at Nairobi mid afternoon;  unloaded our gear;  said goodbye to Sandile, Nyika and our travelling buddies;  then set off with Brenda and Darrell for the Jacaranda Hotel for our final night’s accommodation in Africa. 

Day 56 – 8^th October

Our taxi arrived at 3:15am to take us to the Nairobi International Airport, from where we are bound for Johannesburg and then onto Singapore for a couple of days, before flying home into Brisbane.

A bonus was in store for us as we flew south out of Nairobi.  Previously we could not see Mount Kilimanjaro as it was covered in cloud, but here before us we saw Mt Kilimanjaro in all her splendour and with Mount Meru close by.  The Pilot tilted the wing of the plane to give us all a wonderful view.  On the other side of the plane we also had a great view of Ngorongoro Crater and the lake.  It was icing on the cake to be able to see these from the air.  

My Synopsis of Africa

Africa is a truly amazing, beautiful and vast continent.  The scenery varies greatly as we travel from country to country across this land.  The abundant wildlife life is encouraging; yet poaching is still an issue in many places.  There is vast wealth, yet there is enormous poverty.  Many people live basically with minimal comforts but show happiness and kindness to visitors.  Corruption is alive and well in many sectors and particularly in places of power – so how does the small man get ahead?  Polygamy is a part of the African culture with many men wanting to live by their culture and have perhaps four wives and as many children as they can.  The women are the backbone and workers in Africa and they are working hard for the sake of their children and their future.  Many women are shunning their husbands as they take on another wife, preferring to go it alone to care for and raise their children.  This lifestyle has encouraged the spread of HIV/AIDS, which is rampant in Africa, with up to 1,000,000 children and babies dying annually.

At times, this has been a hard journey, yet it has been an eye-opener and an amazing experience.