Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia - 21 day tour - Discover True Mongolia

It was important to get Pat well rested and in ship shape condition before we headed out of Ulaanbaatar on our 21 day Overland Tour - Discover True Mongolia. Thanks to the great Doctor and the medication he is recovering well. Our driver and guide arrived at the Guesthouse to transfer us to the Puma Imperial Hotel where we will spend the next two nights. Our guide's name is Javkhlantugs, but thankfully he suggested we call him Joe. He advised that he and a driver will pick us up the following morning, when we will meet the other tour members. In the evening Pat and I decided to have an Indian dinner for a change from the Chinese and Mongolian.

Along with our guide Joe, we will have two vehicles and two drivers for the duration of the tour - one driver is named Sodoo and the other Huygaa. It will take a couple of days to get our tongues around the pronounciation of the names - there are no short names for the drivers!
The following morning we met Debbie and Mike, US citizens living in Chang Mai in Thailand and Amelia from Pretoria in South Africa. All five on the tour are retirees, so all have similar outlooks, ideas and travel aspirations. A sixth member Fareed, will join the tour on about day 10.

Debbie and Mike have a 5 year plan to live in Thailand and are contributing their time and money into helping less fortunate young people who have been rescued from human trafficking and involvement in the dispicable sex trade business. We have heard some very sad but interesting stories - once again a sobering reminder of just how fortunate we all are.

Our vehicles for the tour are 4WD Mitsubishi Delicas. Pat, having recently purchased the same type of vehicle, will be keenly watching how the drivers put them through their paces and how they perform. I think he has a few plans in store for the Mitsubishi when he is back home - I think it is going to be another of his projects!

On our first formalised day in Ulaanbaatar we visited the Gandan Buddist Monastery and the Museum of Mongolian National History. A visit to the Museum was a great way to begin our tour - our Museum guide was brilliant and she had a great way of explaining the history to us all - she made the story of Mongolia come alive.

It started to rain in the afternoon, but we decided to head out anyway to buy some practical little gifts for the nomadic families we would visit along the way. Joe suggested items such as writing paper, pens and sweets would go over well. The traffic was blocked on all streets and corners so we decided a taxi would not be an option, so set out on foot. The rain continued to come down and the streets were flooded with all the gutters overflowing. By the time we arrived back at our Hotel a few hours later, our boots were saturated and our clothes quite wet, so we made the decision to have dinner at our Hotel - all agreed it would be the best option. A good night's sleep would be most welcome in readiness for the first day's travel.

Ulaanbaatar to Amarbayasgalant Monastery (385 klms)
As we drove out of the Capital City of Mongolia - Ulaanbaatar, the cityscape was replaced with rolling green hills and mountains. Livestock roaming the hills included cows, yaks, goats and sheep with many birds flying overhead. Amelia and Mike are both keen birders so we're keenly learning about the birds of Mongolia. We stopped for lunch in the second largest city of Mongolia and continued north toward the beautiful Amarbayasgalant Monastery. As it was getting later in the day, Joe suggested we check into our Ger Camp and visit the Monastery after breakfast.

Within the grounds of the Ger camp, there is one large Ger which is the restaurant and another building with amenities including hot showers and western style toilets. The dinner begins with a salad or soup and is followed by a main course and dessert - tea and coffee are always available. When we arrived in the Ger Restaurant the waitress welcomed us - she was dressed very smartly in black and white and did a great job, equal to a city restaurant.

Our Ger is very cosy and comfortable - a large round, movable dwelling, built on a timber latticed frame and covered in thick sheep's felt. The roof has a circular centre through which the chimney for the internal fireplace protrudes - all this is supported by a series of sticks secured to the top of the lattice and pushed into the round centre. The beds are comfortable and cosy warm - extra blankets can also be provided if necessary.

Amarbayasgalant to Uran Togoo Mountain, Bulgan (246 klms)
Alongside our Ger camp, horses and riders are preparing for the Naadam Festival held each year in Ulaanbaatar during July. We have a treat in store, as they are now preparing for a 10 klm practice race across this valley and there must be at least 25 participants. Our vantage point gave us a good view as they started and eventually crossed over the hill and returned to their training base. Mongolian riders stand in the stirrups quite a bit as they ride, as opposed to sitting on the horse's back.

Naadam is Mongolia's traditional festival and is celebrated annually each July. Since the 1921 revolution the festival has been organised in honour of the victory of the Mongolian people's revolution, but the Mongolians have been celebrating this festival for thousands of years.

The three main games are wrestling, archery and horse racing and are considered to be the essential skills that men should possess. In ancient times every man was a warrior and they needed to learn these skills to defeat the enemy.

Wrestling was originally a game to test strength and wit - another resource says it aimed to teach young children to tame and domesticate wild animals. The horse is not only the main means of transport but is also man's best friend - symbolising power, strength and loyalty. The ability to ride a horse in fast speed was a must a man must possess.
In ancient times the ability to shoot with a bow and arrow was highly valued as it was the main hunting weapon and also used to defeat the enemy. These three manly games grew into sport and specially trained men of high skills compete in the events thus making it more competitive and interesting. Each year Naadam hosts over 35,000 wrestlers, 40,000 horses and 1,500 archers throughout the country of Mongolia.

We visited the Monastery after breakfast and spent several hours exploring the grounds. When Russia took over Mongolia many hundreds of the Buddist Temples and Monasteries were destroyed. This particular one was spared with the locals hiding away all the statues and furnishings for safe keeping. In 1990 when Mongolia gained its independence and became it's own democratic country, Buddism once again began to flourish. Time and money was spent on the Amarbayasgalant Monastery to restore it and once again the Monks returned here to practise Buddism and restore their beliefs and teachings. Buddism in Mongolia is being renewed and is now alive and well.

There were about 20 young monks in the Temple when we arrived. We were welcomed into the Temple and were able to photograph them and observe them in their studies and in prayer time. These young monks would have ranged from about 7 to 13 years of age. Amelia is an extremely keen Amateur Photographer so she is enjoying the many subjects she is able to photograph. Although retired, she is hoping to sell her photographs via Facebook to supplement her living and at the same time provide her with a wonderful hobby.

Travelling across country once again we came upon a pack of very large vultures feeding on 2 dead cows, lying alongside the road. As our vehicles approached many of them flew off onto the neighbouring hills to wait for our departure, when they could once again return to their feast. On these green grassy hillsides, the large vultures stand upright and look like sinister creatures draped in full length black cloaks, staring down at their prey.

As we travel further north the evenings are becoming quite cold, so after checking into our Ger for the night Pat decided to light the fireplace. In no time the Ger was toasty warm - in actual fact it became too warm so we had to keep the door slightly open for a while until the heat settled down to a cosy warmth. It is now 9:30 pm and the sun hasn't yet fully set.

Bulgan to Moren (315 klms)
We have left the main roads behind and are crossing the country over narrow dirt and sometimes bumpy roads which go every which way. There are no road signs or markers but somehow the drivers know which track to take. We could be driving along a track on the bottom of a green grassy hill and above us could be as many as ten tracks all clearly visible - as one track becomes wet or rough it's time to just start another!

We pulled off the road and stopped alongside a Mongolian farmer who was drawing water from a well, to give his livestock a drink. A large wheel with spokes was mounted parallel to the ground and the water was drawn by turning the wheel - the water gushed from the well into the trough alongside - to the satisfaction of the awaiting livestock.

Today we visited a nomadic family, were welcomed into their home and offered tea and food. The tea is sweetened and made on milk while the food included small buns tasting somewhat like doughnuts and dried pieces of food which are made from yoghurt. I only drank enough tea to be polite and slipped the yoghurt slice into my pocket when the opportunity arose. The Mum and Dad live in this ger with their children in the summer and in the winter they dismantle the ger and return with their family and livestock to their location higher in the hills. At this location the animal shelters designed for the harsh winter stand in wait for the livestock to return from their summer grazing. The family once again re-erects their ger in readiness for the winter.

Ahead of us we were to cross the river, but due to recent, heavy rains we were told the bridge across the river has been washed away. Plan B now had to come into play which meant an extra 66 klms of cross country travel to reach another crossing. When we reached the river - we were a bit perplexed when we saw the vehicular barge used to cross the fast moving river. There was a wire rope strung across the river but we could not see how the barge, which was supported by two large steel boat hulls, would be propelled. Not a worry - this is how it's done in Mongolia. Sodoo and Huygaa drove the vehicles onto the 2 vehicle log barge - made sure all the passengers were safely on board and off we went across the river. The barge just kept cruising across the swift currents and in no time we had reached the other side, where the vehicles were quite swiftly unloaded. A couple of flooded creeks had to be negotiated before we were once again on dry land. Quite an adventure for the day.

We had spent about 12 hours travelling so it was a welcome sight to see our Ger camp ahead. This camp we voted as the best so far - the Gers were a little larger and with drapes covering the walls and carpets on the floor it took on a very cosy atmosphere. The meal in the evening was excellent as were the lovely hot showers. A lady seemed to be stationed permanently in the amenity block and she would wipe down and clean the amenities after each person.

Moren to Lake Huvsgul (143 klms)
After a few days of travel and we had all become more relaxed in each other's company, true personalities emerge. I would give the driver Hoygaa the prize for the best and most considerate driver - he has a gentle personality and is very attentive and caring. Sodoo is a real character - a very experienced driver and he is always laughing and making a joke - we believe he would have been the Class Clown! He gets the prize for Mr Personality. Both drivers are the same age as PJ and Kelli and they are fun to be with and great to relate to in our limited English / Mongolian languages.

As we approached the Toilogt camp at Lake Huvsgul, we could see the Yurts which would be our home for the next two days. Reindeer People live in this area, so it is appropriate that the accommodation include several Yurts which look something like large teepees. Our Yurt is right on the edge of beautiful Lake Huvsgul and our views across the lake to the mountains are out of this world. The crystal clear lake is 130 klms long, 36 klms across at the widest point and 240 metres deep at the deepest point. The Yurt is quite large inside and comes complete with the lovely fireplace. We are in the northern part of Mongolia here and not far from the Russian border, thus the temperatures are quite a bit lower. I'm just glad we came in summer! Today I even bought a pair of cashmere gloves for the evenings.

We took a trip up to a summer camp of the Tsaatan nomads - commonly known as the Reindeer People. We were able to visit and take pictures at a cost of $5 US per camera. There are about 36 different tribes of Reindeer People, with each tribe being comprised of about 3 different families. Amelia enjoyed photographing the people and their reindeer and even felt inclined to take up the offer of a sleepover from the lady of the house, who is, incidentally, a shaman.June 20 Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia - 21 day tour - Discover True Mongolia

What is a Shaman? A shaman is a person who interacts with both the normal world and the world of spirits, usually acting as a sort of intermediary between the two. Shamans are common in many tribal cultures, although shamanism may also exist in other types of culture. The shaman is often responsible for both the physical and spiritual health of people, and may also be called upon to invoke spirits for aid, or to predict the future and interpret omens.

The meals here in Toilogt are very good but the soups are really delicious. As we have moved further into Mongolia we have noticed there are less green salads and vegetables with meals, but more carbohydrates such as potatoes, rice and noodles.

It is very relaxing here at the lake and there are many activities available. Horse riding, kayaking, boating, fishing, bird watching, walking and bicycling are some of the options. After dinner last night and before we went to bed, Pat and Mike set up a bonfire right on the edge of the lake. It was great sitting around the fire and having a chat with the many Mongolians who asked if it would be okay to join us. The hard part was leaving the warmth of the fire and heading off into our Yurt to settle in for the night. The Yurt was freezing so we decided that a fire will be in order for the following morning and night.

Lake Huvsgul to Jargalant (340 klms)
As we set out in the early morning, the rain started to come down, which to our advantage keeps the dust down on the dirt tracks which head off every which way across this vast country. The tracks can be slippery and some creek crossings quite muddy, but the Mitsubishi Delicas handle the terrain quite well. As we travelled through the beautiful Khangai Mountains we saw many wildflowers in bloom - colours such as white, yellow, pink, blue, purple and orange - and often clustered together - Mike identified wild roses and wild iris.

Have we ever seen a crooked bridge before? The answer is definitely no, after the one we saw today - what a doosey - the wooden structure was something else! The bridge has been damaged from the fast moving river and it has been patched and re-patched - it is on it's last legs and incorporates an S bend and 2 dips on what otherwise should have been a straight structure. We left the drivers in the vehicles to cross and all the passengers walked across. A sight to behold - railings missing and the floor boards quite rickity. Thankfully for the townspeople a new bridge is under construction.

A nomadic family was on the move up over the mountain - all their possessions were loaded onto yak drawn wagons, including their ger. The family walked alongside the wagons and the children thought it was a great adventure.

We crossed over the Tsagaan Burgas Pass and drove further on to the Jargalant Hot Springs. At our Ger camp the hot water is drawn from the springs and fed into a rock pool, which can be enjoyed by all. As we walked from our Ger to the restaurant for dinner, we noticed 2 men holding a sheep down on the ground behind the building - within seconds the sheep was put down and they commenced carving. Pat said "I guess we're having lamb for dinner tonight!"

Jargalant to Khorgo Terkh National Park (116 klms)
The scenery from Jargalant through to the Khorgo Terkh National Park is stunning - an abundance of bird life and masses of wildflowers. The livestock graze happily over the hills and valleys. We crossed over a few passes and suddenly in front of us was Lake Terkhlin Tsagaan - the Great White Lake, complete with crystal clear water, sandy foreshores and surrounded by masses of wildflowers. The lake is 16 km long, 4 to 6 km wide and 20 metres deep at the deepest point. The volcano crater and surrounding rock formations as well as the lake were formed as a result of volcanic activities. About 7,700 years ago the Khorgo volcano erupted and produced extensive lava fields. The lava streams dammed the local river and the water level in the mountain valley rose until this beautiful big lake was created.

A few kilometers further on we left the lake and headed into the Badmaarag ger camp, which is nestled alongside a beautiful stream. The staff, all in matching uniforms and red caps, came out to the carpark to greet us and carry our bags. The gers are located on the side of the hill and the paths have little walkway lights. The amenities are wonderful and there is even a lady ironing the sheets! We went to the restaurant for lunch - this ger camp definitely has the "wow" factor. The chairs are covered and decorated with a bow and there are even cloth napkins to match the tablecloth. This camp is the best one we've seen so far - we are all very impressed.

In the afternoon I took the opportunity to write up my travel diary, while Pat went with the guide and drivers to visit Khorgo crater, the extinct volcano and surrounding areas. In the evening after dinner, Pat and I played Rummikub with Debbie and Mike. They have also now caught the Rummikub craze and will buy the game on their return to Thailand.

Khorgo Terkh National Park to Tsenhker Hot Spas (234 klms)
Today we travelled along the edge of the Chuluut River Canyon, crossed the canyon and then headed towards the steppe plains of Karakorum. At a little township we took the opportunity to visit a post office and send off a package to our grandchildren. Later we stopped for a picnic lunch and then travelled on further through stunning countryside to the Munkh Tenger camp at Tsenhker Hot Springs.

Another camp with the WOW factor - the main building was 2 storeys high and built entirely of logs and incorporated the bar, restaurant, amenities, hotel style accommodation and fabulous hot spring pools. The restaurant furniture was also made from timber logs. Following a magnificent dinner we headed to the hot springs for a while before calling it a night. The springs were great. It is now 9:30 pm and still quite light.

Tsenhker Hot Spas to Karakorum (130 klms)
Mongolia is truly a beautiful country - the clear blue skies, the rolling green hills dotted with livestock and the herdsmen going about their daily routines - I seem to never tire of the beauty of this countryside. We arrived in Karakorum for lunch and then headed out to visit the Erdene Zuu Monastery.

Karakorum was chosen as Genghis Khan's new capital in 1220 and served in this role for only 40 years before Hubilai Khan moved the centre of state to Beijing. The city flourished once again during the 16th century Buddist renaissance with the construction of Erdene Zuu monastery, which was the first Buddist monastery founded in Central Mongolia in 1586.

Inside the grounds which are surrounded by 108 stupas, there are many temples, one of which is Tibetan style. Apparently there is discussion today with the government of Mongolia, to build a new capital of Mongolia here on this ancient site and alleviate some of the congestion in Ulaanbaatar.

Fareed from London joined our tour today - he travelled westward from Ulaanbaatar to meet us here in Karakorum. Fareed called himself an international mixed bag - Mum is English, Dad is Pakistani and he was born in Scotland! He is certainly looking forward to the trip.

Pat went shopping this morning and bought one litre of fermented mare's milk, which is quite the national drink here in Mongolia. Fermented camel's milk is also available for those who are keen for a challenge. Pat can have the mare's milk - I'll stick with water!

At our camp site, we have wifi, which gives me the opportunity to catch up on emails and send off a couple of letters. I had 49 items in my inbox, so it was good to bring everything up to date. It was wonderful to receive the latest photographs of our new granddaughter. Today Kelli and Lawrence flew out of Australia, bound for Taiwan to meet their new adopted daughter, Bronagh Lee Jia-Wen Symonds. We can only imagine the excitement and thoughts they are now dealing with.

Karakorum to Ongi Monastery Ruins (260 klms)
I have been referring to this day as "B" day - we are so happy about the latest addition to our family and eagerly await the time we meet Bronagh. Kelli told me that Flynn, Liam and Ayla are preparing some of their toys to give to Bronagh - they are also looking forward to meeting their new little cousin. Apparently Liam keeps asking when the baby will arrive - he is one tough little guy with a soft heart made of gold!

The scenery and countryside is now changing rapidly. Today we left behind the lush green countryside which has now been replaced by the dry semi-desert of the Gobi steppes, where today we saw our first camels roaming about. One of our creek crossings was quite muddy and wet, so after a few failed attempts to cross, we all alighted from the vehicle to give Sodoo a chance to get through the crossing - thankfully all went well. We stopped for a picnic lunch and then travelled on further to the Secret Camp of Ongi at the Ongi monastery ruins.

The Ongi monastery once housed 500 monks and had a monastery on each side of the Ongi River. Tragically in 1937 the Mongolian KGB, on behalf of Russia destroyed 30 temples here and murdered over 200 monks, thus wiping out this monastery. Today many visitors come to stay in the Ger Camp and visit the ruins of Ongi.

The camp is great with very modern facilities and this evening our tour group was treated to dinner in the VIP room. Our travel company, Selena Travel, brings a lot of business to this camp so they like to look after them. All the gers are booked out tonight, so Joe, Sodoo and Huygaa have been given beds in the information centre. We met up with an Australian group of 18 travelling on a Wendy Wu tour and I met a couple from Mackay, Joan and Bill Howland. Their property borders onto Mackay Port Authority land - I knew their names and we also have friends in common - it's certainly a small world. We returned to our ger after dinner and a text message came through from Kelli and Lawrence - the message we have been waiting for.

Had a great day. She is absolutely gorgeous and we are totally smitten. We will probably ignore the phone for a while so don't mind us as we settle in. Talk to you all soon.

The perfect end to the day. Bronagh Lee Jia-Wen Symonds is now safely in her parents' arms.

Ongi Monastery Ruins to Bayanzag (169 klms)
We left Ongi this morning to travel 169 klms to the Flaming Cliffs. After lunch we watched a 1922 documentary of an expedition led by Roy Chapman Andrews through the Gobi to this area, where dinosaur skeletal remains and eggs were found, retrieved and transported back to the United States. The specimens were all discovered at the base of the vivid red cliffs. Chapman was said to be quite a rogue and it is said he was the character on whom the film character "Indiana Jones" was based.

Today we were given a wonderful opportunity to meet a nomadic family - a husband and wife with 7 children, ranging in ages from 9 year old twins to a 20 year old daughter studying Humanities at the University in Ulaanbaatar. We were welcomed into the family ger and served food and drinks - we also left gifts such as writing pads, pencils, colouring books and lollies for the children. The father is a camel breeder and he had about six camels saddled up ready to take us to visit a nearby saxual forest. The youngest children were lying all over the camels and they looked like a very contented family - humans and animals alike. Debbie, Amelia and I chose to walk as we had been sitting in the car for quite a lot of time and felt we wanted to stretch our legs - Pat and Mike chose the camels and off they set. The saxual forest with short stumpy scrub bushes is hundreds of years old with the roots of the bushes sometimes going down as far as 100 feet to reach water.

In the afternoon we watched a very moving Mongolian movie called The Weeping Camel about a nomadic family and their camels. The story focused on a camel who had a 2 day labour before delivering her white coloured baby camel. The camel kept rejecting her baby and refused to allow her to drink her milk, until finally they brought in a violinist. Eventually the camel and her baby were brought together with the help of beautiful singing, stroking and violin music. It was quite an ending to see the baby suckle from her mother and then the two of them standing rubbing their heads and necks together in the sunset!

Bayanzag to Khongor Sand Dunes (153 klms)
Today's journey took us through vast desert badlands as we travelled toward the east. Mountains lined the horizon as we passed by nomadic family gers and their herds which roam the countryside. Bunches of camels sit looking toward the horizon - and as legend has it - the camel keeps watching the horizon for the deer to return with the antlers he borrowed centuries ago. I think it might be a long wait!

This stark landscape is the Gobi Desert. The Khongor Sand Dunes, which form part of an extensive dune formation called Khongor Els, stetches for 180 klms and are 5 to 6 klms wide at the widest point, with the highest dunes reaching 2,600 feet. There is a beautiful fresh water stream at the base of the dunes, with lots of lush green grass. Towering above the sand dunes are dark rocky mountains, which gaze out over the desert plains. We drove close to the base of the highest dunes and climbed upwards for about one third of the distance, until we were driven back by cutting 50 to 60 klm winds and sand.

Khongor Sand Dunes to Yoliin Am Gorge (239 klms)
Our trip to Yoliin Am Gorge took us past the Three Beauties, the last of the Altai Mountain Ranges. We followed the creek bed through the base of the gorge and found a great grassy spot where we stopped for a delicious picnic lunch. I must stop accepting the delicious chocolates that are offered at the end of every lunch and dinner - but easier said than done, I suspect! As we travelled through the gorge we saw mountain goats, horses, gazelles and lots of birdlife. When we could drive no further, we hired horses for a 2.5 klm ride, followed by a 300 metre walk into a narrow chasm with ice still intact from the winter snows.

Following some Rummikub games after dinner, we headed to our ger for a great night's sleep - the following morning would be an early start.

Yoliin Am Gorge to Tsagaan Suvarga (232 klms)
This morning we drove to the nearby major centre for Amelia to take a flight back to Ulaanbaatar. She has hurt her back, which does not seem to be improving, so she has decided to head back to the city for some expert help. Following Pat's recommendation and good results from the medical staff at the SOS Hospital, Amelia will head there. All going well, she will rejoin the tour in a few days time.

It was good to get some mobile phone coverage this morning and receive some text messages from family members. We have had very little contact over the past two weeks. Kelli and Lawrence are enjoying their new daughter and are looking forward to introducing us to her on 11th July in Taiwan.

The countryside, as we head north, is still quite dry and stark but it is now dotted with low green shrubbery. Our camp site is in an area called Tsagaan Suvarga which has a series of naturally formed white earth cliffs, shaped like stupas. The scenery from the top of the cliffs to the open flat land below was a spectacular sight of natural formations believed to have once been part of an inland sea. The pinks, reds, whites and browns of the cliffs and surrounding areas were really amazing. From our vantage point on the top of the cliffs we had an uninterruped 360 degree view of the land and we could see the white gers of our camp in the distance. It was very cold on our arrival, so after hearing it was only 2 degrees in Ulaanbaatar, we took out our warmer clothes and scarves. Need them we did - it was very cold.

Tsagaan Suvarga to Ikh Gazarlin Chuluu (245 klms)
On our drive to Ikh Gazarlin Chuluu today, we became lost after losing sight of the main track. Our driver Sodoo, didn't seem to be too worried - he just kept following a motorbike track over hill and down dale. We stopped a couple of times to speak with some nomads and eventually we could see the main track ahead in the distance. Good on you Sodoo!
As we were driving along we saw two gazelles darting across the countryside - they were like jets on legs! We were amazed at the speed at which they travelled. A single gazelle also crossed out path at the same pace .. just amazing.

We drove toward the Ikh Gazarlin Chuluu mountain which is surrounded by a maze of granite rock formations - it could be likened to an area on the moon. Imaginations can run wild as you look at the rock formations and make out a picture before you made completely of rocks - for example, we saw a praying person and behind him several smaller praying children.
Our ger camp in the evening served a traditional Mongolian dinner called Khorkhog, which is roasted mutton cooked in the pot with hot stones and then served with rice and vegetables. A storm had passed over earlier in the afternoon so our camp was quite dusty and cold.

Ikh Gazarlin Chuluu to Gun-Galuut (352 klms)
Today we had a long day of driving, but as we progressively neared our destination the countryside turned back to the lush green rolling hills and mountains of Mongolia. Today we even travelled on a bitumen road for about 40 klms! As we drove along, we could see a lady riding a camel out in a field. As we approached, she left her camel behind and ran across the fields to our vehicles. She was a stunning looking lady, dressed in traditional clothing - she was looking for a lift for her father to the village. Unfortunately we were unable to help as it is against the company policy to pick people up along the way.

In the afternoon we arrived at what would be our last ger camp for the next two nights. Gun-Galuut is a nature reserve and is home to many endangered species including the Argali wild mountain sheep and the white napped crane. We were lucky enough to see two cranes and also saw some sheep high up on the top of the mountain. The ger camp is called the Steppe Nomads camp and is located alongside a beautiful river.

Our ger was very comfortable and fully carpeted - quite a luxury. The meals in the restaurant were wonderful and we spent two days unwinding after our wonderful trip. We left camp at six o'clock the following morning and set out for 3 hours looking for the birds and animals in this reserve. In the afternoon we took to the river in a 'rubber duck' and headed downstream for the next 2 hours. Our trip downstream took us through herds of horses, cattle and yaks - all standing in the water up to their bellys until we arrived. As we approached the herds they took off out of the water and headed for higher ground.

It was so good to have internet access once again, so we were able to spend some time on Skype getting in touch with our families.

Our two drivers, Huygaa and Sodoo, invited their families to join us at Gun-Galuut while we were all there. It was a special treat to be able to meet them all. Sodoo and his wife are expecting a baby on 12th August, so we'll send a soft koala to the baby when we arrive home.

Gun-Galuut to Ulaanbaatar (136 klms)
This morning we set off from Gun-Galuut early to head back into the city of Ulaanbaatar - our last day before our flights to Seoul and Taipei to meet up with Kelli, Lawrence and our latest granddaughter, Bronagh. It gave us some time to do some shopping - particularly for a cashmere cardigan for my Mum and some knick knacks for our grandchildren. Also included in the day's itinerary was a trip to the Bogd Khaan's Palace Museum.

Debbie and Mike kindly let us use their place to take showers before we left. At 6 pm we all headed out to a Mongolian Folklore concert, which included Mongolia's famous throat singing (quite amazing), several wonderful singers, an amazing contortionist and dancers - a truly memorable way to end our Mongolian adventure. Our next trip was to a giant ger restaurant for a dinner before heading to the airport.

We said goodbye to Debbie & Mike, Amelia, Fareed and Huygaa at the restaurant - Joe and Sodoo loaded our gear into the Delica and we headed for Ulaanbaatar's airport. As we drove along, Joe said both he and Sodoo were going to sing a Mongolian song for us - it was beautiful - we will so fondly remember our time spent with these fantastic people in this amazing country. As we checked in at the airport I turned around and the guys were still waving to us through the windows! They did not leave until we were out of sight.

We have visited and stayed in ger camps for this whole trip. A few camps are quite basic while the majority have been brilliant. The beds have been more on the "firm" side with the linen always fresh and clean. All the facilities have been clean as a whistle, with western style toilets and hot showers - most camps have a cleaner who comes in straight after use and cleans and wipes down before the next user. All meals without exception have been truly delicious and the portions are quite amazing. Lunches and dinners include salad, soup, main course and dessert - so much for the weight loss programme!

Ulaanbaatar to Seoul, South Korea and Taipei, Taiwan
We boarded our Korean Air flight and headed to Seoul. On the flight we had about one hour's sleep and then another hour's sleep in Seoul airport. Our flights were all on time and we were too excited to have a sleep on the next leg from Seoul to Taipei.

Henry, as pre-arranged, was at Taipei airport to meet us and take us to our hotel. We were at the reception desk checking in when I had a tap on my shoulder. I turned around and there were Kelli and Lawrence holding a beautiful baby girl in their arms.

Kelli said I should take her, but I preferred to keep my distance for a while, as I didn't want to frighten this little treasure. Kelli insisted and as soon as I held Bronagh in my arms she started feeling my face - real goose bumps material! Pat also held her and she was very comfortable with us. It sure didn't take long to fall in love with this beautiful little girl - a most welcome addition to our family.