The following morning after breakfast, we headed up the street to catch a taxi to the bus station. Our next destination was Ohrid on the banks of Lake Ohrid. This must be Macedonia's holiday playground. The lake borders both countries of Macedonia and Albania. We found a Hotel along the waterfront and did a bit of bargaining - we managed to then get a suite on the 3rd floor overlooking the lake - just gorgeous! The city has a lovely centre and of course the usual many shops and shopping opportunities. We've been hanging out for some good vegies so we ordered vegetable soup and vegetables for dinner which was pretty good. Our balcony gave us some lovely views out across the lake both during the day and at night.
In the morning we booked a boat cruise up the lake to the Monastery of St Narm, which is right on the border with Albania. The lake surface was like glass as we cruised along enjoying the beautiful scenery. We visited the old Monastery and walked along a crystal clear stream which ran straight into the lake. Apparently there are 31 springs which feed the steam and the lake. The lakeside beaches are beautiful - of course Pat found a lovely spot to relax and enjoy the sun for a couple of hours.
We had to organise our transport into Albania the following morning. We took a taxi to the town of Struga on the border and from there a bus to Durres on the Adriatic Coast. Albania is full of small domed concrete and steel bunkers, with rectangular slits to see out of - they are located along the highways, on hilltops, front gardens and just about anywhere - the countryside is dotted with them. They were built between 1950 and 1985 and weigh about 5 tons. When we left the bus in Durres we had to walk about 2 klms before we arrived at the coastal area where we found plenty of accommodation and checked into a hotel with great views out across the Adriatic Sea.
In the morning we took a taxi to the bus station and checked onto the bus to Skodra - from there we took a mini bus to the border of Montenegro - the world's newest country. Our bus took us onto Bar on the Adriatic coast, from there we headed 2 hours further north to Kotor. The country is very mountainous with magnificent coastal scenery and the city of Kotor is located on Europe's southernmost fiord. We walked down into the Old City bypassing the touts trying to sell rooms at "their" place.
We priced some Hotels in the area - the first one we checked out was priced at 155 euros and the second one was 120 euros, which were far too expensive. As we were discussing where to stay, a lovely elderly gentleman approached us to see if we would like to stay at his home as he had a couple of rooms he rents out. We went to have a look - his home was centuries old and was once the home of a President - we thought that should be okay for us - and the price was only 25 euros! It sure pays to shop around. To top it off, we had a great night's sleep in a very comfortable room.
The city of Kotor is an ancient maritime and cultural centre. Right behind the city are high mountains which protect the city and the coastline area from the severe northern climate. The walls of the city zig zag their way up to the top of the mountain, across the top and down the other side - quite a sight to behold. The old city is full of narrow streets and squares and has many valuable monuments of medieval architecture thus allowing it to be included in the UNESCO list of World Natural and Cultural Heritage.
The following morning we took the bus to Dubrovnic, Croatia. The scenery out of Kotor through the fiord was spectacular as we headed northward to Dubrovnic. This city is considered Croatia's Jewel in the Crown. This old city is even more spectacular than Kotor but each is different and both great to see. We were checking out the Tourist Office in Dubrovnic when Nicolai approached us to see if we would like to take an apartment at his place - we had a few laughs with him and decided to go with him and check it out. Well we took the apartment for 2 days and had a great time there with both Nicolai and his wife Marija who are both 75 years of age. Nothing was too much trouble and Nicolai offered to take us to the Old City later in the afternoon. Seeing we had out own cooking facilities we decided to go to the markets, buy some fresh produce and cook our own dinner, for a change. Well we had a ball buying our fresh vegetables and chicken for dinner that night - we actually bought enough for 2 night's meals which was a great change.
Nicolai makes his own red and white wines and brandy - of course he insisted we sample them all. Another young couple from Manchester, Paul and Hetal, were also staying there, so we all enjoyed a few drinks out on the terrace overlooking the beautiful bay.
Marija and Nicolai came out to say goodnight and I had a kiss and cuddle from both. They are lovely people and being at their place is like being at home. Nicolai was telling us their family home was bombed in the 1991 war and he rebuilt here a couple of hundred metres down the road. He showed us his family's land which has been in his family for over 700 years - now that's a bit of family history! Sadly they told us about 2 little boys who had been killed in the bombing of Dubrovnic - their young nephews.
Marija booked a hairdresser's appointment for me the following morning and all went well - which was great when I think back to my hair colouring episode in western China when my hair turned out a golden yellow colour! Our second day in Dubrovnic was a miserable day - it stormed and poured rain - quite a change for us as we hadn't seen rain since Canada. We walked down to the bus station and booked our tickets for the following day, but the rest of the day was very relaxing. We enjoyed a couple of drinks with Paul and Hetel after dinner. The following day they were heading back to work in Manchester and we were heading onto Mostar in Bosnia and Hercegovina.
We took the bus to Bosnia and Hercegovina and checked into our accommodation. In Mostar we booked a driver to take us to Medugorje about 40 klms away where 6 children in the 1980's began having apparitions and hearing messages from Our Lady, Mary. We walked to the foot of the hill where the apparations began but I knew I wouldn't be able to climb to the top and back down in time to meet our driver - so Pat headed up the hill and I went back to the Church where I met up with our driver. He and I waited a little while and then drove towards the hill, where we met Pat along the way. I would have liked to climb to the top, so I'll put that one down for a future trip. Pat said the climb was rugged and the rock path is sharp and quite treacherous. Many people come here on a pilgrimage and this climb has been done by about 20 million visitors to Medugorje over the past 25 years.
Mostar is home of the Stari Most a UNESCO World Heritage bridge. Mostar was badly bombed during the war in the 90's and the bridge was destroyed - it has since been rebuilt and is open to visitors. At the top of the bridge is a Divers' Club, from where men and boys will dive into the river below - of course, for a fee. We walked many kilometres this day and on our way home called into a little restaurant and had the greatest pizza - the first one we've had on this trip.
In Bosnia and Hercegovina evidence is everywhere of the war in the 90's - bullet riddled and bombed buildings stand alongside new and restored buildings. There are restrictions on where to go and where to walk because of unexploded ordanances and mines - especially off the beaten track. It is suggested to tiptoe lightly in the countryside - we were happy to follow the well beaten routes.
We have been in several countries over the past couple of weeks, including Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia, Bosnia and Hercegovina - many of these countries are small in area and so close together that it only take a matter of hours to travel through.
Our bus driver from Mostar in Bosnia and Hercegovina to Split in Croatia was one of the best drivers we have encountered on this trip - he was very pleasant, didn't smoke under the "no smoking" sign and was a great driver. The high mountains and scenery on this narrow strip of Croatia's Adriatic coast is nothing short of spectacular - it would have to be among the most beautiful scenic drives in the world. The coastline has little villages all along the way with homes and apartments built along the seashore and high up the hills. Of course, every little hamlet has beautiful bays and beaches and accommodation is plentiful - the colour scheme for buildings here is white, beige and terracotta. What a day - what a spectacular drive!
Split is a main shipping port for Croatia with ferries heading out into the Adriatic at all hours of the day. We booked a cabin on the evening ferry to Ancona, Italy - checked our bags in and headed off into yet another Old City. Yes another beautiful city and another beautiful place. After exploring the narrow walkways and squares we bought ice creams and sat on the seafront boulevard to enjoy the scenery and soak up the atmosphere in this wonderful place. Croatia - yes I would certainly recommend it - it is a wonderful place to visit.
At 6:30pm we checked into our spacious cabin on the Blue Line Ferry just below the Captain and the bridge and sat down to enjoy some local ham, cheese and fresh bread, washed down with a nice cold Croatian beer! We had a good crossing overnight and arrived in Ancona, Italy the following morning at 7:30am.
We walked up out of the Port and boarded a bus heading to the train station. In 10 minutes the next train arrived for Rimini our check in point for the Republic of San Marino. There are no trains in San Marino access is by car or bus. We took the bus from Rimini and headed to San Marina. The Republic of San Marino is an enclave within Italy. Ahead of the bus we could see a mountain and on the very top a castle - yes that was our destination. The bus climbed up the mountain - and up - and up!
The territory of San Marino is 61 sq klm and is mostly hill country with Mt Titano in the centre. The Republic is independent, democratic and neutral - although it continues to remain faithful to its ancient traditions, it is becoming more progressive. We watched the Changing of the Guards at the Palace and watched a great demonstration with flag bearers in traditional costume in front of the Palace. We stayed inside the fortress in a Hotel but noticed that once the last tourist bus leaves at 7pm the the shops and restaurants close and the town becomes quiet. Our Hotel room was right next door to the bell tower of a Church so we heard the bell tolling every hour and at every 15 minute interval - fortunately we were very tired and did not hear the bells toll until 6:00am.
The morning bus took us back to Rimini, from where we took trains to Bologna, Florence and then onto Siena in Central Italy. Siena is considered a Gothic gem and is said to be one of Italy's most enchanting towns. In the centre of the walled centre, the medieval Piazza del Campo is a sloping square where people come to sit, watch, eat, drink, kick back and just plain enjoy the sunshine. We walked many kilometres within the city and checked out the churches, buildings and piazzas. In the evening we went to a supermarket and bought up local produce for a great dinner back at our Hotel.
Siena is famous for the annual event called the Palio held in July and August, whereby a bareback horse race is held round Il Campo. The city is divided into 17 districts of which 10 are chosen annually to compete for the silk banner. The only rule in the three lap race is that jockeys cannot tug the reins of other horses. We were awoken in the early hours of the morning by the banging of drums and singing as they passed by our window - the celebrations go on into September, but we were told this is the now the finale.
We were a bit unsure of the logistics of our next day's travel to Victor & Heather's Wedding in Tuscany. We had an address and directions but many Italians shook their heads and were as unsure of the location as we were. All eventually worked out and we made out way by local bus from Florence to a little village in Tuscany, called Tosi. Tosi has no public transport so we headed off on foot down through the Tuscan hills to Villa Pitiana about 3 klms past Tosi. When we had walked about 2 klms a lovely man stopped, bundled us and our bags into his car and took us right to the door of Villa Pitiani.
Victor & Heather's Wedding Celebration was the commencement of three fabulous days at Villa Pitiana in Tuscany. We met Heather in Scotland 2 years ago and told Victor we certainly give her the thumbs up! It was a wonderful get together with family and friends travelling from all parts of the World - to mention a selection - Australia, Scotland, Italy, Ireland, Russia, France, Spain, England, South America, USA, Switzerland and Libya.
A Wedding in Tuscany is considered to be one of the most romantic destinations in the World and I would have to agree. The Wedding Ceremony was held in the Cloisters within the Villa - the bride was radiant and her matron of honour was brilliant; the groom and attendants were resplendant in their tartan Kilts; as was Heather's Dad, Hugh. There was so much attention to detail and everything went off perfectly. The Italian food and wine is something else and we thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience. It was great to catch up with friends from home and to make new friends. It was especially great to catch up with Sandy and Santina from Ayr, who we first met in Mackay several years ago. Pat used to work with their son Chris at Burton Coal - he also used to work with Victor at Burton Coal. It was great to meet Chris's wife, Pauline and hear that they are expecting their first baby in March of 2010.
Tomorrow we will travel through to Verona. We will have one more week of travel from Italy to Istanbul in Turkey, from where we will begin our trip home.
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