Tokyo, Japan to Kashihara, Japan 27th May 2007

It was great to arrive in Tokyo and be met by Pat & Toshio. Pat first met Toshio 37 years ago in Yokohama. We headed from Narita to Yokohama to meet up with Toshio`s wife Seiko. That evening we spent hours chatting and having a few drinks - we were very late to bed but had a great evening.

Pat and I toured Yokohama and checked out the Gourmet Food Halls where you could actually have a meal with all the tasting that goes on - even ended our tasting off with Sake. We had an hour to fill in so headed to the Sheraton for the Happy Hour. We met up with Toshio & Seiko and went out for dinner - we finished off by visiting a bar where we received a great welcome. The barmen put on a magnificent display of cocktail making - bottles were flying in every direction. They built a tower of glasses and poured alcohol over the top - this was then lit and we had a magnificent display of fire - at the end a cocktail was poured and it was delivered to yours truly. In the taxi on the way home we sang Waltzing Matilda - the taxi driver was stoked as it was the first time anyone has ever burst into song in his taxi!

We spent the weekend at Izu-Hanto about 100 klms south of Yokohama. During the day we headed up Mt Fuji (Japan`s highest peak) to the 6th level. That night we stayed at the Harvest Club with sweeping views across the mountains to Mt Fuji - our room had a wall of glass so the views were spectacular. That evening we had a traditional Japanese meal and sampled some sake. On our way up the peninsula the following day we visited Odawa Castle which was built about 800 years ago. Izu Peninsula is a great place for touring - we saw many rallys - including VW`s, sports cars and hundreds of motor bikes.

Takahashi, a friend of Toshio`s took us out to Kamakura. Kamakura was one of Japan`s original capitals from 1185 to 1333. We had a great day out with Takahashi and walked for 6 hours checking out the area and sites. We visited Enoshima island and went into Enoshima Iwaya cave which has been formed by wave erosion over a long period of time. The view over the coast from the observation tower at the top of the island was great.

Last year we met Mariko at Chitwan National Park in Nepal - she lives and works in the Tokyo area so we were happy to be able to catch up with her for lunch at Chibuyu.

Toshio, Pat and I took off for a 3 day trip out through Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture and headed up to Mt Tateyama. We visited Kurobe Dam which was built to overcome the serious shortage of electric power in the postwar period. We travelled the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route by train, bus, trolley bus, cable car and gondola up to the lodge where we stayed. The resort is closed from December to April due to the heavy snowfall. Outside the resort the roadway is quite spectacular with 10 - 12 metre banks of snow on each side. We rugged up and went out in the cold evening for a walk along the roadway. The Mt Tateyama (3,015 mts) area in the Northern Japan Alps is called The Roof of Japan - the mountains are snow covered and spectacular.

We travelled to Unazuki and stayed in Traditional Japanese accommodation. Our meals were served in our unit by a waitress in traditional dress, a kimono - she looked after us the whole time we were there. Our beds were rolled out and put onto the tatami mats on the floor - very traditional - our pillows were like little bags of seed (husk of buckwheat). We had a great night`s sleep on futons on the floor. We took a 3 hour train trip up to into the magnificent Kurobe gorge from Unazuki to Keyakidaira and return - this gorge is spectacular and is considered to be Japan`s finest v-shaped gorge. We took a train up the west coast and then boarded a Shinkansen for our return trip to Tokyo.

The Shinkansen is the bullet train which is the fastest and best known train service in Japan - it reaches speeds of up to 300 km/hr. The overall train service in Japan is truly amazing - trains are always on time, clean, and efficient. No smoking areas in stations are strictly adhered to - there are even special rooms on platforms where smokers may go - nobody drops rubbish - it is all put into bins or taken home. The use of English language is not as prevalent in Japan as in China and Japan does not have an English TV station - so we just watch the news in Japanese!

Seiko and her friend Karolee took us to Disneyland and Disneysea for the weekend (while Toshio worked) - we all stayed at a swish hotel at Disneyland. It is really great to stay there on location - you can slip back to the room for a nap anytime! In the evening we headed out to see the Electric Light Show and the Fireworks. Disneyland is certainly a great place to visit.

Toshio went out one day to visit his Mum - she is 99 years old and has just had a birthday. She sent 2 origami birds (cranes) home for Pat and me - lovely souvenirs for us to keep from his Mum. We said goodbye to Toshio and Seiko and headed south out of Yokohama.

We took the early morning Shinkansen to Kyoto and then changed trains to Nara where we were met by Atsuko and Koichi, friends of Colin & Linelle`s. While in Nara we visited the Todai-ji Temple - a historical site which was originally built in 752. This temple houses the largest bronze statue of Buddha in the world and is made from 437 tons of bronze and 130 klgs of gold.

Koichi took us for an evening walk up to Amagashi-no-oka, which is a beautiful area not far from their home. I suspect this was a little warm up for the next day. Atsuko & Koichi's daughter, Takako, played music for us on her grand piano and oboe - she is a member of the Amateur Orchestra in Kashikara City - very enjoyable! Koichi has now retired from teaching and Atsuko continues to do volunteer work - she prepares text books in braille for blind school children.

The following morning we drove for 2.5 hours to the mountain area of Yoshino-Kumano National Park. Here we spent 3 hours hiking on Mt Odaigahara 1,200 mts above sea level. It is so picturesque in these mountains of Japan - every corner brings yet another beautiful view. Needless to say we were pretty tired and exhausted at the end of our hiking so we had a treat in store for us. We headed down the valley to Kodokora Hot Springs where we had a traditional Japanese-style bath and soaked in the hot pools - it was great sitting outdoors in the hot pools straight from the hot springs!

Bangkok, Thailand to Tokyo, Japan 10th May 2007

Well I have made it to Japan - survived Indochina. I flew into Tokyo about 4 hours before Bertha arrived from Brisbane. My Japanese friend Toshio whom I met 37 years ago here in Tokyo was there to meet us.

Laos: I found out why the guy was on the bus with a machine gun - apparently the Rebels ambush the buses on that mountainous road, so they are on the buses to protect the passengers. The reason the land border was closed from Myanmar to Thailand was because the Rebels were fighting the army on the border - a lot of Rebel activity around the Northern borders of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand. This area is known as The Golden Triangle because of the poppies that are grown for the opium which is still a big trade in Laos and Myanmar.

At one of the bus stop/cafes in Cambodia we saw the local police go into the kitchen to see if they had any wild animals being prepared for human consumption - they pretty well eat anything over there. At another bus stop some young girls had a big spider they were trying to sell Paul for US$1- they eat them too. Saw a massive bowl of fried crickets this lady was selling also what looked like day old chickens or ducks complete with heads and feet on a skewer.

Phnom Penh: After getting back from the Killing Fields we went to a Casino near the hotel where they give us a couple of free beers to encourage gambling. We saw a 10 or 12 year old local boy playing the auto roulette machine, he must have been winning he had a fist full of US Dollars. There are no restrictions on age over there for gambling, riding motor bikes or drinking. Went down to the river to where there is a lot of foreign bars and clubs. Left next morning for Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. Went to a traditional Cambodian dance show and buffet dinner at the Temple Bar. Next day we lined up a Tuk Tuk to take us around Angkor Wat visiting all the temples, been around for 1000 years, some foreign governments and the UN are paying to renovate and preserve the old temples around Angkor Wat. Left Siem Reap in a clapped out minibus for the Thai border - took 7 hours to go 120 kms - it was boggy and rough. We got through the border with hundreds of others during pouring rain.

Pattaya: Took a double decker aircon bus to Pattaya Beach where we spent a couple of days relaxing on the beach, shopping and looking around at night. Saw some kick boxing -had a few beers and an Aussie meal at the Roo Bar. We witnessed a shocking accident where a guy broke his ankle - he jumped off the stage at a club and snapped both bones just above the ankle and they were sticking out the side of his leg -he was a foreigner turned us off our drinks! Took a bus to Bangkok Airport to confirm our flights for the next day then went back to the same hotel we stayed at before we flew to Rangoon.

Left at 4.00am and went to Bangkok airport. Don't bother flying United - couldn't take any duty free liquor on board had to take everything out of the day pack and have a frisk search. American airlines have gone overboard on security. I had a fairly rough trip to Tokyo looked like the oldest 747 Jumbo in the fleet. Better go now on our way out to Yokohama. Wellsy.

Burma to Cambodia 3rd May 2007

Hi All, hope you are all fine as we are. Arrived in Phnom Penh 3/5/07. In Northern Laos we caught a night bus to Vientiane the road is a very winding road and very mountainous - when we got on the bus they loaded a motor bike on down the aisle and ripped all the vinyl uprights on the seats. It was tied down beside me so I used the seat as an arm rest. A guy got on just before we left and I noticed he was carrying a Machine gun under his jacket but trying to hide it - then we didn't know what we were in for, whether he was riding shotgun, going to hijack us or maybe he was on the run. Some women on the bus got sick from the bus going around the corners - there were bamboo railings around the edges of the corners - probably would have only stopped a push bike. Made it to Vientiane at 4.30am and were dropped off in the centre with this American back packer 81 years old - hope I'm still not going back packing by then. Paul and I had to help him in and out of the Tuk Tuk 3 wheeler motorbike taxi. Found him a hotel and we went to the river to get a hotel down there. Walked to the Cambodian Embassy to get our visa's and looked around the markets in the 6 hours we had to kill. You can still buy Singer Sewing Machines complete with cast iron treadle and stand. Went to an all-you-can-eat buffet lunch it was great to have such a variety of food, don't think they will want any Aussies back for a while! That night we caught the bus to Pakse in the south of Laos then a mini bus to Hat Xai at the top end of the 4,000 islands on the Mekong River, this area is a lake 26 kms long by 14kms wide. Right on the Cambodian border we got a boat across the river to the biggest island Don Khong stayed there awhile then decided to get a river taxi down to Don Det about 14 kms south. Booked into a guest house - no power - genset gets turned on at 6.30pm and off at 9.30pm. Hired bikes and went to old rail bridge the French built - then onto some waterfalls on the Mekong - then to a beach at the southern end of the island about 20kms round trip. Had a massive storm that night as it is just coming into their Monsoon season. It is hot and humid - the best time to visit to these countries is Jan/Feb in their winter when it is supposed to be cooler. Next day we took a long boat to the mainland and saw all the fisherman with their catches selling them to the peddlers on the bank near the markets. Took a lift on the back of 2 motor bikes to the Cambodian border. UXO personnel from UN are still clearing land mines left over from the Vietnam war days - apparently still heaps of unexploded ordinance around Laos and Cambodia you don't go off the roads or tracks. Through the border and onto Stung Treng where we crossed the Mekong in a clapped out ferry. Then a taxi to Kratie with some locals - good highway down as the Chinese and Japanese have paid for the roads. Went out to the spot on the Mekong where the Irrawaddy fresh water dolphins are - there's only about 100 left they probably won't be around much longer - UN is trying to preserve them. Caught the bus to Phnom Penh and went to the Killing Fields very sad what happened there. Anyone who was intellectual, wore glasses or was a foreigner were executed - mostly with axes and bamboo sticks so they could save bullets - some were blindfolded, tied up and buried alive. That happened to 180,000 and another 1.5 million died in the famine that followed - all this was from 1975 to 1979 during the Pol Pot Regime. That is it for this time we are off to Siem Reap and Anchor Wat - sorry to finish off on such a sad note. One Aussie was amongst those killed. Bye Wellsy

Australia to Mandalay Burma

Hi All, I am back on the road again - this first month I'm travelling with a mate of mine Paul Keenan - Bertha and I will meet up in Japan early May. When we arrived in Bangkok the taxi driver wanted 900 Baht but I got him down to 500 so I've still got my bargaining skills. We checked into a dodgy hotel near the main railway station and next day went to the Myanmar (Burma) embassy for visas - paid extra for a one day application. Thursday afternoon we took the bus to Kanchanaburi near the Burmese border, to the Bridge over the River Kwai. We walked over the bridge and went to the war museum. Over 100,000 POW'S died building the Rail line between Rangoon and Bangkok, most were British, Dutch, Australians, Americans and Malays. Back in Bangkok we travelled and stayed at a hotel close to the airport as we had to be there by 5am. Arrived Rangoon OK and booked into another dodgy hotel - always the budget one in the Lonely Planet's book - looked around the city and the waterfront - got wet as the water festival was on for 4 days - the Burmese girls picked on the foreigners. Went by train to Bago and then up to Taungoo. The trains in Burma are something else I can't understand how they stay on the track - heaps of bolts missing off the fish plates that bolt the rails together . The rails have a 75mm bow in them so the train goes up down when the fish plates are opposite each it even bottoms out on the springs and when the fish plates are half way along on the opposite track it rocks and rolls - apparently they do have a lot of derailments. When we arrived at Taungoo we copped a drenching because of the water festival. Stayed in a hotel a Doctor owned he took us around the town the next morning while we were waiting for the next train. In Tha Zi we stayed in a hotel and met some Dutch girls who were going to Inle Lake - we decided to get the same bus with 5 Spanish girls, 1 French, three Dutch girls and a Dutchman all of us wanting to catch the bus but it was a holiday and the bus didn't turn up. We then took a ute taxi with a canopy for 7 hours - 12 back packers 1 driver and 2 offsiders - 2 girls in the front with the driver 4 on the roof of the canopy with all the back packs 2 standing on the tail gate and the rest in the ute - cost us US$100 between 12 so it ended up being cheap except the road was winding dirt dust and rough Paul and I got to sit in the ute and talk to the 4 Spanish senoritas. It's rough on the road but somebody's got to do it. Stayed at Inle Lake right on the water where the long boats leave from. 6 of us organised a long boat for the next day with the driver able to speak English. Went to temples, markets, saw the long neck women of Burma with the brass rings around their necks went weaving, cigar making, gold & silversmith, umbrella and blacksmithing villages there were 4 guys on the sledge hammers not missing a beat forging chopper blades. Paul and I hired bikes and went to the hotsprings. Next day we went to Bagan and saw every last temple in a horse and cart - 2500 temples in Bagan. Then on the slow hard seat train to Mandalay and ran into all the people who were in the back of the ute to Inle Lake. We found out we could not cross the border into Thailand as they closed all land borders a month previously. We caught an overnight bus to Rangoon and then flew onto Bangkok and Chang Mai. Travelled onto Chang Rai and Chang Khong on the Laos border right on the Mekong River. Stayed in a hotel that overlooked the river - had this character running it who took his guitar out while we were having a beer. We have sampled all the different beers over here, haven't had a bad one yet but they are all heavy even had a Myanmar stout but it was like poison 8%. Took a longboat across the Mekong got our visas for Laos then booked a trip on the slow boat to Luang Prabang. It was a 2 day trip we stopped over night at Pak Beng another dodgy hotel no power - genset broken down and the town water went off but we survived. Next on the river went down through some rapids in 150 ft longboat about 140 back packers from all over the world on board. Had the Spanish salami that the girls gave us, bought some cheese and baguettes. The French taught the people of Laos how to make decent bread. In Luang Prabang hired push bikes went to all the sites around town and then on to Vientiane where we are at the moment. Cambodian visas tomorrow - planned on 2 weeks Myanmar, 1 week Laos and 1 week Cambodia we are still on schedule. Wellsy